Week Long Expose': How to Buy a Suit Parts 4 & 5

Now that you are aware of the numerous different options available for suit jackets and pants out there, it's time to focus on completing the ensemble. This means covering the additional aspects: shirts, ties, shoes and accessories. Let's first start with shirts.

Again, you may think that obtaining a dress shirt is simple, and it can be, but there are different styles and options that you need to know. Firstly, it's very important for you to know your size. No, this doesn't mean "oh I'm a large" or "I wear a medium shirt"...these aren't t-shirts we're talking about here. Dress shirts are sized like this: 16-16.5;33/34 representing your neck size and sleeve length, respectively. It is important to ensure both these numbers are proportionate to your actual neck size and sleeve length, otherwise your shirt won't fit properly (remember the importance we stressed about FIT) and you'll either look like an amateur (if the shirt is too small) or sloppy (if the shirt is too big). Starting from top to bottom, let's cover the different styles of collars and cuffs available.

Collars: there's not much difference in collar styles; most notable differences will come in the length of the point or spread of the two sides.

Now, most of you are probably only aware of one style of collar. By far the most common and widespread is the standard point collar, which is found on almost 99.9% of dress shirts you can by at retail stores. While there's nothing wrong with the point collar, aesthetically it's probably the most proportionate and even, it's commonality is what drives me bonkers. Additionally, point collars don't serve the skinny tie trend very well. If you know nothing of style, the point collar will be your best and safest bet as it treats all neck sizes equally and will accomodate different tie knots the same; it's also important to point out that point collars can be of the standard variety or button down variety. Point collars are a quintissential American style, and have been for many years though recently, they have taken more of an "every day guy" type back seat to the other styles; that is to say point collared shirts are generally purchased and worn by those on a budget and/or sartorially limited.

The second type of collar you may or may not be familiar with are the spread collars. These come in two different varieties: half spread (also referred to as quarter spread), or full spread (sometimes referred to as half spread). For the purposes of this article, we will refer to them as half spread and full spread, respectively. The appeal of these collars is they give off a more athletic look, where the points are spread further apart. These collars generally accomodate thick tie knots the best; a la full windsors. In the later seasons of HBO's comedy/drama 'Entourage', super agent Ari Gold (played by Jeremy Piven) can be seen sporting numerous half and full spread collared dress shirts (it's important to distinguish however, that his shirts are probably bespoke and made to his specifications as spread collared shirts are not too common). Spread collars are derived from British style, and are featured on more European designer labels. Lately, they have become more and more popular among the business elite; CEO's, hedge fund managers, attorneys, etc as well as those more stylishly inclined. Spread collars are my preffered shirt style.

Below: full spread (left) half spread (right) courtesy of http://www.execshirts.com/




Other collar styles you should be aware of (but are less mainstream): pin collars, where the two points are "pinned together" by collar pins (either provded with the shirt or purchased separately), this style was popular in the 90's, and Mandarin collars. Mandarin collars were also popular in the 90's due to the fact that the collar didn't fold down like others and, therefore, didn't require the wearing of a tie. While the aforementioned can still be pulled off with a little creativity, I'd steer clear of the latter as much as possible, unless you want to look like a clergyman (different if you ARE a clergyman) or in a bad Jet Li movie.

Below: pin collar (left) mandarin/tab collar (right) courtesy of http://www.execshirts.com/

Sleeve cuffs: the cuffs on shirts come in three different styles. Barrel cuff, French cuff, and convertible cuff. They are differentiated by how the cuffs are fastened together.

Barrel cuffs are the standard found on run of the mill, retail store dress shirts. The cuffs are fastened together by buttons (generally one or two) sewn in on one side. See to the right.

French cuffs (my personal preference) have an elongated sleeve, because the cuff is essentially doubled in size. This allows for the bottom portion of the cuff to be folded up to meet the top portion. French cuffs do not have buttons, but instead are fastened by cufflinks. French cuff shirts are the perfect way to achieve that understated level of class and elegance to any suit. Sometimes you will see shirts that are French cuff are doubled/folded over, avoid these at all costs. Traditional French cuffs are like those pictured to the left; the standard barrel cuff with slits that are passed off as French cuffs are cheap imitations.

Convertible cuffs are barrel cuffs that have both buttons and slits and can be easily converted between traditional barrel cuffs and French cuffs. I would avoid these as well because it makes you look indecisive. If you prefer one type of cuff over the other, buy shirts with those cuffs. If you like both, alternate. Buy one that's barrel, one that's French, etc. I will be completely honest when I say that I HATE convertible cuffs. They should all burn in hell. You will find convertible cuffs a lot of times on those cheap tuxedo shirts you rent; do yourself a favor and skip convertible cuffs.



Ties. If you're the average man, you probably hate ties. You have no idea what tie will match what shirt (patterns especially) and I can't tell you how many guys I ran into in college that had NO idea whatsoever how to tie a tie; let's not even get started about how there are more than one type of knot. I've even heard a story about a friend of mine who had to tie several ties in advance for a friend of his in college for an out of town job interview, just so he had several options. This is unacceptable. Gentleman, TIE YOUR OWN TIES!!! For God's sake, at least learn how to tie one knot, very well. The three most common tie knots are as follows:

Full windsor: also referred to as a double windsor, this is my preference. It is the most symmetrical and gives you the perfect triangle knot look. It is also a larger knot (since more wrapping is involved) and complements spread collar dress shirts beautifully.
How to tie a full/double windsor:

Half windsor: also referred to as the single windsor, this is probably the most common tie knot. It differs itself from the full windsor in that there are less strokes and wraps involved. You still achieve the triangle knot, but when compared to it's big brother, it is increasingly asymmetrical. The half windsor is perhaps best suited (no pun intended) for shirts where the collar points are very close together. How to tie a half/single windsor:

Four-in-hand: this knot looks very similar (if almost identical) to the half windsor. It only differs itself in the steps on how it's tied. The body of the tie in a four-in-hand is wrapped twice on the same side whereas the half-windsor is wrapped only once on a single side.The same asymmetrical triangle look is achieved and again, is best for shirt collars in which the points are closer together.

How to tie a four-in hand:

Remember, the tip of your tie should hit your belt buckle. No higher, no lower. Also, take some time to adjust your knot so that it looks crisp and neat. Most people (women especially) notice the little details and can spot a sloppy tied tie from a mile away.

Shoes: now shoes are fairly simple. There are a few rules to employ when wearing a suit that applies to shoes that you should follow. Firstly, lace-up oxfords ONLY. When you're wearing a shirt and tie with a suit (presumably to work, an interview or some event that requires the aforementioned threads) the ONLY shoes acceptable are leather lace-up oxfords. Whether they're round-toe or square-toe is up to you, but I'd suggest sticking with a round-toe slim silhouette oxford with slim fit suits. Colors should be black, brown, or tan/cognac only and should match your belt. Color coordination tips: grays, charcoals and navys can be matched with any color shoe. Those are the most versatile colors for suits. Not sure what color to get? One of those will allow you ultimate versatility. I don't really need to show pictures of shoes, do I?

Wearing a suit casually? Say, with a v-neck or no tie? Feel free to spice up your shoe game with loafers or wingtips. Maybe throw in some Chuck Taylors if you dare.

Accessories: there are a few accessories you can employ to touch up your suit game.

Firstly, tie bars. Tie bars are clips (they can match your cufflinks but don't have to) that hold your tie to the button placket of your shirt. This prevents your tie from blowing astray in the wind, being dipped into soup at dinner, etc. They come in a variety of finishes (gold, silver, matte, brushed, etc) and widths to accomodate different ties and styles.  

Cufflinks: they fasten the cuffs on your French cuff shirt. Great little accessories that can be personalized to whatever your desire is and are available from pretty much every major designer. Plethora of different metal materials, finishes, and styles which allow you to dress up or dress down as you please.







Belts/suspenders: two different options to keep your pants up. Belts should be leather, with a simple buckle in brown, black or tan/congnac. Your belt should match your shoes. Suspenders can be any variety (granted you don't mix earthtone suspenders with say, a black suit) and should be worn independently. That is, wearing a belt? No suspenders. Wearing suspenders? No belt. They do NOT go together. Suspenders should be fastened with pre-sewn buttons on the inside of your pants. The clip on variety, much like clip on ties, are NOT acceptable.

So hopefully this weeks expose' has helped you readers reach your sartorial peak in becoming more of a refined gentleman. And, being as I've spent most of my day at work composing today's post, I bid you, the Style & Swag Nation adieu for now. Thanks for being part and reading! Happy weekend.

Week Long Expose': How to Buy a Suit Part 3

The Pants:

You think there's nothing to pants? Think, again. There are numerous combinations that you can put together for pants, and I'm here to lay them out for you. First, let's go through some common terminology used regarding suit pants, so that when they're thrown out by tailors/salesman you don't just nod along saying "uh huh, sure" like a dumbass.

Waist: this is pretty self explanatory. The waist is the part of the pants that go around your waist. The band (generally we call it a waistband) that has those loopy things for belts? I think they're called belt loops? Okay, let me stop, as I'm being facetious. We all know what a waistband is and what belt loops are.

Seat: when tailors/salesman refer to the "seat" of the pants, they're referring to the fabric area that covers your ass. On the back of the pants, this generally starts at the fabric directly below the waist band, encompasses the rear pockets, and stops right around where your thighs meet your ass cheeks.

Inseam: this refers to your pant length. Generally it is measured from where your waist starts down to where your foot ends.

Bottom: the bottom of the pant leg, usually accompanied by "hem" i.e. 'how would you like the bottoms hemmed?'

Break: the amount of slack your pant bottoms have against your shoes. Refer to below.

As I did with part two, I will start from the top of the pants to the bottom and describe the different styles/features associated with suit pants. It is also important to distinguish the difference between suit pants and slacks. Suit pants will have three separate methods of closure: inside button, hook and eye, outside button; these go from left to right. Slacks on the other hand, simply button and zip like jeans.

Pleats: pleats are folds in the pant fabric where the waistband meets the rest of the garment. If you are striving to look fashionable, modern and contemporary, pleats are an absolute no no. Why men still insist on having pleats I don't know, perhaps they don't know what else is out there. There different types of pleats: single pleats, double pleats, triple pleats, and reverse pleats. These simply refer to the amount/orientation of the "folds" that make up the pleats. I personally feel pleats add unnecessary bulkiness and heft to your pants. Imagine wearing a double-breasted jacket with quad-pleated pants. Is all that extra fabric necessary? Really?

   Flat-front: also referred to as plain front, this is the style for today's suit (and my personal preference). Flat-front pants are exactly that, they are flat in the front. No folds in the garment, no excess fabric, nothing. Just a clean, streamlined silhouette. That's the way it should be.  


















Cuffs vs Plain Bottom...the bottoms of your pants can be hemmed one of two ways: cuffed or plain. Cuffed pant bottoms (also called turn up or turned up) have part of the fabric (usually 1"-1.5") rolled up, creased, and finished that way. Plain bottoms (non-turn up) are hemmed exactly that way, plain. Generally, cuffed bottoms are found along with pleats, and plain bottoms are found along with flat front. You normally wouldn't intermix the four facets, however pleated pants have been seen with plain bottoms. However you see fit, if you go with what I mentioned in part one (bespoke), you can have your pants done any way you want (though I prefer flat-front, plain bottom).

Finally, let's discuss the break on your pants for a bit. As aforementioned, the break is how much slack the bottom of your pants have on your shoes. There are three styles of break: no break, mid/half break and full break.


No break gives the least amount of slack as possible. Your pant bottoms will stop right before touching your shoe with no break so that there is no "break" in the silhouette of the pant. General perceived rule of thumb: having no break is okay, and sometimes even preferred if your pants are of the slim fit variety. If they are standard fit dress pants, having no break may give off the high waters vibe.

The mid/half break gives slightly more slack, and is considered preferable when getting your pants hemmed. This is the mid-point where the pant line starts to break ever-so slightly, but not too much to be perceived as overly baggy, and not too little to be perceived as high waters. The mid break is the Toyota Camry; the sensible, safe choice, and my personal preference.

The full break should be avoided at most, if not all costs. Full breaks give the most slack, and the most noticeable "break" in the pant line possible. Again, you might get away with it if your pants are slim fit (because there's less fabric in diameter) but if they're standard fit pants you will look sloppy. The pants will look baggy and give off the impression that you're still in middle/high school sagging with your waistband hanging halfway down your ass. That look doesn't flatter anyone.








Putting it together: pair a nicely fitted, tapered 2-button, double vented peak lapel jacket with flat-front, plain bottom, mid/half-break pants, and you've got a good foundation going for suiting up. Tune in tomorrow for the finale of this week long expose', where we will cover the rest of suiting up: shirts, ties and accessories. As always, thanks for reading and being part of the Style & Swag Nation!

Week Long Expose': How to Buy a Suit Part 2

The Jacket:

Happy Tuesday Style & Swag Nation! Continuing our week long expose' on how to buy a suit, I present to you part two. Today I will discuss every aspect about the jacket that are available out there. What you choose as your own personal preference is up to you.

The jacket is quite possibly the most integral part of the suit as it's what is first noticed. Jackets come in varieties of different shapes, sizes and styles, and I'm here to lay them out for you from top to bottom.

1. Lapels: the lapel on your jacket is the flap/collar that is folded over. It generally starts at around the midpoint of the jacket and goes up and around your neck. While the style of the lapel serves no real functional purpose, it can dramatically change the aesthetic appeal of your ensemble. Many of you are probably only familiar with one type of lapel (even though there are three major ones). They will be discussed below.

A. The notch lapel. The notch lapel is the most common lapel found on jackets. It is called a notch lapel because you will find that there is a "notch" cut into the lapel itself creating a sideways triangle cutout shape. As aforementioned, these used to be reserved for more casual looks, thus why they used to only be found on suit jackets, blazers and sport coats (before you even start, YES, back in the day, suits were considered casual and still are, depending on the situation). These days, in an attempt to make society more casual (not a huge fan of this), notch lapels are becoming more and more common on formal wear, particularly those run of the mill default tuxedos you find high school and college kids renting for their proms, fraternity/sorority formals, and first weddings. There is nothing wrong with having a notch lapel as it is still considered to be a classic and conservative look, particularly on business wear. Those with a higher sartorial sense may want to consider the latter options.

B. The peak lapel. Peak lapels, also referred to as point lapels, have been making a return to the suit scene as of late, and with good reason. The peak lapel used to be reserved for formal tuxedo wear ("classic" tuxedos will have an all satin peak lapel) but, as aforementioned, are being re-introduced on many suits. My personal preference, the peak lapel helps to narrow and elongate your neck line making you look taller, particularly in slim form. They can be differentiated from notch lapels by how they look. Whereas the notch lapel seems to have a piece missing from the collar, the peak lapel is full and then some. Notice how the shape of the lapel points up and "peaks" if you will, like a mountain top. This shape is where the name is derived from. Most people will never notice the difference in what lapel you're wearing, but those who do won't hesitate to praise you for being a non-conformist. Remember, the smallest detail can often make the biggest difference.

C. The shawl lapel. Sometimes also referred to as the the wrap lapel, there's not much of a lapel here. The entire collar is rounded and untouched, giving a much different look than both the previous options. You will notice most dinner jackets with shawl lapels and, much like the peak lapel, they used to be reserved strictly for formal wear. Lately, I have seen many suits with shawl lapels, too. This may be a trend however, so I would be wary about purchasing a suit for daily wear that has a shawl lapel. If you're looking at a tuxedo with a shawl lapel, this is also a classic formal look; I say go for it.








2. Single vs Double Breasted: this is honestly more of a personal preference, but I will distinguish the two for you, though the difference is pretty simple. Single breasted suits seem more popular these days, as we strive to achieve a slimmer, more streamlined look. The breast (or the body of the jacket) is only buttoned once, and does not overlap (single). Double breasted suits are exactly the opposite and require a significant more amount of fabric (perhaps why DB suits are also generally more expensive). The jacket will overlap and button once in the inside, and then once again on the outside opposite end. The decision is yours regarding which style you prefer, but I have deducted that generally the older male population is still keen to double breasted jackets. It is also important to distinguish the difference between having a double breasted suit jacket/sport coats/blazer as opposed to having a double breasted overcoat, trench coat, or pea coat. The term "jacket", for the purposes of this dicussion, will refer only to suit jackets, sport coats, and blazers.

3. Buttons. The number of buttons on your suit jacket is largely up to you. The standard and classic looks call for 2 or 3 button jackets. Edgier individuals may opt for the 1 button and generally, anything above 3 button is considered a major fashion faux pas (think of those atrocious suits that Steve Harvey and Cedric the Entertainer wear). The number of buttons will generally only alter how much shirt/tie is shown and how high the apex goes. The apex is higher (less shirt/tie shown) on 3 button jackets, and is lower (more shirt/tie shown) on 2 button jackets.

 

4. Vents. Suit jackets will feature one of three different kinds of vents (or slits, however you want to refer to them): no vent/ventless, center/single vent, or side/double vents. These vents, obviously, are featured at the back of the jacket. Again, what you choose is up to you as these days, it's more form over function. A little history lesson: ventless jackets are of Italian descent and the main reason for having a ventless jacket was to take focus away from one's rear end. Center vent jackets are classic Americana and came about in American style to allow the individual to sit down and avoid having the back of his jacket being wrinkled and sat on. It's also traditional Ivy League style. Double vents are derived from British style. Side vents were useful when horseback riding because they allowed the jacket to drape naturally while the individually was riding on a saddle. I personally prefer double vent jackets, as they also become very useful if you're the "hand in pocket(s)" type of guy; excessive bunching and wrinkling is prevented with double vents when you have your hands in your pockets. 

Hopefully today's article will help you know what to look for in suit jackets and also what you're personal preferences are. Stay tuned for parts 3-5 the rest of this week and, as always thanks for reading and being part of the Swag & Style Nation!

Week Long Expose': How to Buy a Suit Part 1

So it's Monday, and after taking the weekend off from contributing I figured I would post something that would be useful to most, if not all men out there. This is going to be part one of a week long expose' entitled How to Buy a Suit; we will cover every facet of suit buying, from style preferences all the way to fit & finish. Much of this will depend on your personal preferences, but we're here to lay everything out for you. Pay attention Style & Swag Nation, this is for you.

Part One:

So most of you when you think of buying a suit are probably very one track minded about it. You think to yourself "I'll go to the store, find one I like, try it on and buy it." This is the most rookie way to go about it. Today, I will cover the three different avenues, off the rack, made to measure, and bespoke, suit buyers have to "suit up" and look the best you can while exuding both style and swagger.

1. The first option is off the rack, which means simply that. You go to a store and pick a suit off the rack. What most of you fail to realize is you are not built like the manakin that the suit is sized to. Buying off the rack also limits the choices you have in terms of the style of suit. When you go to a store, you will have the salesman pitch getting things altered, how it should fit, how it should look, etc. Pay them no mind. Realistically, most salespeople selling you a suit, have NO idea how things should fit or look. They may know for themselves, but evaluating someone elses preferences is a completely different ballgame. You will also probably get the upsell to have things tailored according to "their" specs; you will want to try and avoid this. I understand certain aspects are unavoidable such as having the pants hemmed, but any tailor can do this (my grandmother can hem pants). If you want to realistically look your best, try avoiding buying suits off the rack. Buying off the rack normally gives you the least amount of options for personalization and customization...and before you think to yourself, you SHOULD care about this.

*Please also realize the noted difference between buying a SUIT, and buying suit SEPARATES. Suits will have the jacket and pants bundled together and usually come in a 6-8 inch drop (meaning whatever the jacket size is, subtract 6-8 inches to calculate the pant size i.e. 44 jacket usually comes with pants that are 36-38 waist size; different designers will vary) whereas suit separates allow you to buy the jacket and pants separately, with the pants pre-hemmed to a standard size/inseam (i.e. 32x30 or 34x32).

2. The second option for buying a suit is called made to measure, or more commonly abbreviated as MTM. Most high end designers offer made to measure service to their "clients" (customers really as anyone can be a "client" of Zegna, Versace, Hugo Boss, etc). Made to measure works like this: the designer will have pre-made styles put together of suits, you choose one, they usually have many different options to choose from, and the expert tailor on site will get all of your measurements and the suit (the style is MADE already) will be cut to your precise measurements; thus the name made to measure. This allows for a few degrees more of customization when compared to buying off the rack since you can have the suit cut however you want and are not limited to the selection that say, Macy's or some other retail chain has to offer. Tailors working in conjunction with MTM service are generally of higher caliber as well and thus, will produce a more quality garment. Walk into the designer boutique of your choosing and ask for their made to measure service. They will know what you're talking about.

3. The final option, and in my opinion, the most preferable option, is the bespoke suit. The term bespoke is derived from legendary Saville Row (in London, England) tailors meaning that the garment has "been spoken" for. Bespoke suits allow for the ultimate in personalization and customization as the entire process starts from scratch. Tailors offering bespoke service will first provide different swatches of fabric for you to choose from. These can range anywhere from standard worsted wool, to super 120's and 150's wool, to even more luxuriou fabrics like wool/cashmere or wool/silk blends. You, the client, chooses every aspect regarding the design of the suit. And when I say everything, I really mean everything including even the smallest details like the color of lining, number of buttons on the cuffs, color of thread used on your buttons, monogramming, etc. Perhaps the ONLY thing you're limited to regarding a bespoke suit is the fabric. Although this issue for most tailors dabbling in bespoke wear is few and far between since if the client wants a particular fabric or color they don't have, they will find a way to get it. Every man at some point in his life should experience purchasing a bespoke suit and having something fit you like a glove, the way it's supposed to. Go bespoke and you won't want anything else.

As always, the most important aspect of buying a suit is making sure it fits. Material is important as well; I would personally stay away from those polyester/rayon blend suits and stick with either wool (the most versatile and common) or cotton (lighter, more breatheable fabric for summer months). Stay tuned for parts 2-5 later on this week and, as always thanks for reading and being a part of the Style & Swag Nation!

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Style & Swag's Tips of the Day: Tuesday, March 1st

Just some random thoughts that popped in my head and tips of the day (in no particular order):

1. Dress for the job you want, not the one you have. Going above and beyond standard aesthetic expectations shows you want more for yourself, and that you aren't complacent in what you're doing. It also sets the bar higher for others who realize they may need to do more to compete with you.

2. Small details make a difference. Take a look at the people in your office, or walking around the city wherever you are. Now imagine how small tweaks here and there could drastically alter their appearance. Example, instead of looking like every other guy wearing an overcoat/pea coat on the street during cold weather, try popping the collar on your coat. You'll look instantly more stylish and will set yourself apart from the rest of the sheep (in a good way).

3. Now, most of us in professional workplaces wear a tie to work. You should know a) how to tie a tie of course and b) how to tie the knot of your choice (yes, there is more than one type of knot; I prefer a full, double windsor, personally). The key to looking your best is making sure your tie is of proper length. It should ideally hit at your belt buckle. Anything lower/longer makes you look sloppy, and anything higher/shorter makes you look like you have no idea what you're doing.

4. Make sure you look "complete". I have seen one too many guys going to work who pull the "shirt/tie/slacks" look but fail at completing their ensemble with either a suit jacket/sport coat/blazer or proper overcoat. Gentlemen please, the parka/North Face is reserved for outdoor winter sports, it has no place at the office. If you find yourself wearing pants that are part of a suit, just throw on the jacket for God's sake. Otherwise, there are plenty of places you can invest in a nice wool overcoat for a good price. And remember, there is a huge difference between an overcoat and a pea coat.

5. Color coordinate, please. Black belt? Black shoes. Brown belt, brown shoes. 'Nuff said.

Neal Caffrey's got Style AND Swag

Bravo, Phillip...Neal Patrick Harris' Barney Stinson character from 'How I Met Your Mother' is certainly held in high regard for his sartorial sophistication. I'd like to introduce a few of my own inspirations, characters that exude their very own unique examples of "style and swag". The first example that comes to mind is actor Matthew Bomer's portrayal of ex-con turned FBI consultant Neal Caffrey in USA Network's comedy/drama 'White Collar'. At first glance Caffrey's style may seem run of the mill "skinny guy wearing nice clothes" but, with a keen eye, you can notice small little touches that give him ultimate swagger in his own right. Caffrey's suits are not only tailored perfectly for his build (notice the perfectly aligned shoulder seams and tapered drape of his suit jacket) but are consistent for the look he achieves so successfully.

Some points to take notice of: 2-button, double vented jacket, standard width (pictured) notch lapel (though slim-width notch and peak lapels are commonly seen on Caffrey) and flat-front, plain-hem pants complete the suit. It is important to point out that to remain consistent, his pants often have either a partial break, or no break at all. His shirts are generally either half or quarter spread or pin collar (as opposed to the traditional point collar) with french or double barrel cuffs. Vintage skinny ties (usually in a four in hand knot) in a variety of patterns (paisley, plaid, solid) and leather lace-up oxfords complete his ensemble.

Less noticeable, smaller details that make a big difference: pocket square, tie bar, cuff links (french cuffs only, obviously) and his signature (though unfortunately not pictured) Fred Astair/Frank Sinatra inspired fedora.