So it's Monday, and after taking the weekend off from contributing I figured I would post something that would be useful to most, if not all men out there. This is going to be part one of a week long expose' entitled How to Buy a Suit; we will cover every facet of suit buying, from style preferences all the way to fit & finish. Much of this will depend on your personal preferences, but we're here to lay everything out for you. Pay attention Style & Swag Nation, this is for you.
Part One:
So most of you when you think of buying a suit are probably very one track minded about it. You think to yourself "I'll go to the store, find one I like, try it on and buy it." This is the most rookie way to go about it. Today, I will cover the three different avenues, off the rack, made to measure, and bespoke, suit buyers have to "suit up" and look the best you can while exuding both style and swagger.
1. The first option is off the rack, which means simply that. You go to a store and pick a suit off the rack. What most of you fail to realize is you are not built like the manakin that the suit is sized to. Buying off the rack also limits the choices you have in terms of the style of suit. When you go to a store, you will have the salesman pitch getting things altered, how it should fit, how it should look, etc. Pay them no mind. Realistically, most salespeople selling you a suit, have NO idea how things should fit or look. They may know for themselves, but evaluating someone elses preferences is a completely different ballgame. You will also probably get the upsell to have things tailored according to "their" specs; you will want to try and avoid this. I understand certain aspects are unavoidable such as having the pants hemmed, but any tailor can do this (my grandmother can hem pants). If you want to realistically look your best, try avoiding buying suits off the rack. Buying off the rack normally gives you the least amount of options for personalization and customization...and before you think to yourself, you SHOULD care about this.
*Please also realize the noted difference between buying a SUIT, and buying suit SEPARATES. Suits will have the jacket and pants bundled together and usually come in a 6-8 inch drop (meaning whatever the jacket size is, subtract 6-8 inches to calculate the pant size i.e. 44 jacket usually comes with pants that are 36-38 waist size; different designers will vary) whereas suit separates allow you to buy the jacket and pants separately, with the pants pre-hemmed to a standard size/inseam (i.e. 32x30 or 34x32).
2. The second option for buying a suit is called made to measure, or more commonly abbreviated as MTM. Most high end designers offer made to measure service to their "clients" (customers really as anyone can be a "client" of Zegna, Versace, Hugo Boss, etc). Made to measure works like this: the designer will have pre-made styles put together of suits, you choose one, they usually have many different options to choose from, and the expert tailor on site will get all of your measurements and the suit (the style is MADE already) will be cut to your precise measurements; thus the name made to measure. This allows for a few degrees more of customization when compared to buying off the rack since you can have the suit cut however you want and are not limited to the selection that say, Macy's or some other retail chain has to offer. Tailors working in conjunction with MTM service are generally of higher caliber as well and thus, will produce a more quality garment. Walk into the designer boutique of your choosing and ask for their made to measure service. They will know what you're talking about.
3. The final option, and in my opinion, the most preferable option, is the bespoke suit. The term bespoke is derived from legendary Saville Row (in London, England) tailors meaning that the garment has "been spoken" for. Bespoke suits allow for the ultimate in personalization and customization as the entire process starts from scratch. Tailors offering bespoke service will first provide different swatches of fabric for you to choose from. These can range anywhere from standard worsted wool, to super 120's and 150's wool, to even more luxuriou fabrics like wool/cashmere or wool/silk blends. You, the client, chooses every aspect regarding the design of the suit. And when I say everything, I really mean everything including even the smallest details like the color of lining, number of buttons on the cuffs, color of thread used on your buttons, monogramming, etc. Perhaps the ONLY thing you're limited to regarding a bespoke suit is the fabric. Although this issue for most tailors dabbling in bespoke wear is few and far between since if the client wants a particular fabric or color they don't have, they will find a way to get it. Every man at some point in his life should experience purchasing a bespoke suit and having something fit you like a glove, the way it's supposed to. Go bespoke and you won't want anything else.
As always, the most important aspect of buying a suit is making sure it fits. Material is important as well; I would personally stay away from those polyester/rayon blend suits and stick with either wool (the most versatile and common) or cotton (lighter, more breatheable fabric for summer months). Stay tuned for parts 2-5 later on this week and, as always thanks for reading and being a part of the Style & Swag Nation!
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